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Rare Victorian Forum > Antiques > Antique Furniture Care > Gilding and Ebonizing Touch-Ups
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Author Topic: Gilding and Ebonizing Touch-Ups  (Read 1373 times)
Rare Victorian
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Gilding and Ebonizing Touch-Ups
« on: March 09, 2008, 01:20:40 PM »

Anyone have any wisdom on the best materials/methods for touching up gilding and ebonized areas of furniture that need a touch-up?
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Michadi Antiques
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Re: Gilding and Ebonizing Touch-Ups
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2008, 12:05:35 AM »

John,

Could you post a picture of the piece you are working with?  This can be a very tricky process to do right, especially if you are working with incised carving which is usually the case.  Here are some suggestions:

1.  The old ebonizing was usually done in black shellac.  In order to recreate this you can get yourself some shellac and a small bottle of TransTint black dye at http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/faqs.htm.  You are after a "1 1/2 to 2 pound cut", so if you use the stuff in the can that you can get a Home Depot, cut 50 / 50 with denatured alcohol, and add a little TransTint black to the shellac mix.   If you are redoing a large area and don't want to fool with the effort to apply shellac properly (which can be a real bear for novices) you can mask and spray with a black satin enamel.

2.  Now comes the part that will have you pulling out your hair to get right.  In order to apply the gold you will need to obtain some gold paint and a small artists brush.  Your selection of gold paint is critical; there are a couple of factors to consider.  The first is to avoid gold paints that use a copper base to obtain the gold color, which by the way is 99% of the stuff you will find in an arts/crafts store.  The reason you want to avoid these paints, is the fact they will look great at first, but will all tarnish over time in the same way that copper or bronze gets its patina.  This is one case where oxidation is undesirable.  You may have to mix different shades of gold in order to obtain a color that matches what you have and will blend in correctly.  The second thing you need to give some serious attention to is the solvent used to remove excess and mistakes which will most certainly occur.  The solvent you want must  remove the gold paint, but not react with the underlying ebonized finish.  Since your original finish is nearly always done in Shellac on Victorian furniture, you will want a gold enamel that can be removed with mineral spirits.  Avoid gold paints that are removed with alcohol or you will damage the underlying base finish.  Once you have the correct paint and solvent, the technique is to paint your incised line, then quickly grab a rag with solvent and lightly run your hand down the line to remove the excess.  Using the right amount of pressure will leave the gold paint in the trough of the incised line.  If you spend your time simply trying to paint the lines without the use of solvent, you will find it absolutely impossible to do as good a job as the original craftsmen no matter how steady your hand is.  Believe me on this point.  I spent many hours cursing and scratching my head, wondering how on earth those guys could paint such flawless and fine lines.  The fact is they didn't without using some technique other than just a hand and a paintbrush.   

Hope this is helpful,

Michael
 
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Re: Gilding and Ebonizing Touch-Ups
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2008, 02:01:44 AM »

Michael,

You can see the piece in the attached pictures.  The close-up shows the drawer which is probably the only area that I might mess with with respect to gold.  You can see that a previous owner used black paint on the escutcheon.  The rest of the piece is in fairly good condition and un-mucked with.  Fortunately a thick coat of some very old wax protected the vast majority of the gilding and once it was cleaned, the gold sprung out.  Makes the one spot stick out relative to the rest.

Thanks,
John
« Last Edit: March 10, 2008, 02:04:18 AM by Rare Victorian » Logged

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woodwright
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Re: Gilding and Ebonizing Touch-Ups
« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2008, 02:06:22 PM »

A favorite of mine for gold/ gilding touch ups is "Rub & Buff". It's a wax based paint - it comes in a squeeze tube (I've bought it at AC Moores & a local art supply store - check other craft/ art stores).  It's excellent to work with (can be applied by brush or even a rag for highlights of raised areas), comes in several shades of gold (also silver, bronze and other colors) which can be intermixed to create any color you want. It has a nice soft sheen, which can be buffed to a higher sheen if desired because of the wax base. Mineral spirits is the solvent for it so it's easy to clean away unwanted painted areas with a rag or Q-tip, mineral spirits has no affect on virtually all dried finishes. Try it - I gaurantee you'll really like it.
For touching up black/ ebonized finishes - I would use a black satin laquer in an airbrush. Fill any chipped paint/ with spot glaze (comes in a squeeze tube, available at auto parts / autobody supply stores), smooth with very little laquer thinner on a rag (be very careful, laquer thinner can damage many finishes) and or very fine sandpaper (220), mask off areas not wanted painted - I use a purple color easy release tape by Duck Brand tape (Perfect Release Plus? Painter's Tape) available in 1, 1 1/2, 2" widths @ Walmart in the paint department - it's a little expensive - but worth it's weight in gold. Nothing else on the market even comes close to it - it will release from all but the most delicate of finishes with no damage (the blue tapes - even the perfect release tapes don't even come close for releaseability) - try it, I personally gaurantee you'll love it. Then paint touch ups w/ airbrush - no brush marks, can feather the edge, with practice can get nice detail even on carvings and places that are difficult to brush. Laquer dries too quickly to brush very well other than very small areas. You can test color/ sheen on scrap and intermix sheens (flat, satin, semi or gloss) until you get a good match. It will probably take 2 - 3 coats - but laquer dries quickly. If it is too shiny, sheen can be dulled down with a fine scotch brite pad - rubing very softly with a white or grey scotch brite pad.  woodwright 
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Re: Gilding and Ebonizing Touch-Ups
« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2008, 02:24:18 PM »

It's funny, I've also got tips from others via email and everyone has their own formula for doing this stuff - some would not permit me share the info due to 30 years of development, which I can respect and will honor.  Wish we could arrange a bakeoff to see the best solutions bubble up.

I thank everyone for their tips.  I think I need a good few days, and old piece of furniture, and about 20 products to test out and see what does the trick.

Thanks again.
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