Rare Victorian
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« on: April 01, 2008, 02:20:54 PM » |
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Anyone have experience polishing out old marble that has scratches, or worse, stains? I have a table with a marble top which has a darkened area that I need to buff out. I've heard that you can use sandpaper in higher grits, but looking for experiences out there.
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1881victorian
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« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2008, 02:32:15 PM » |
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I'd also like to hear more on this topic...including how to deal with candle wax stains.
Also, would the same technique for removing scratches work on old granite surfaces?...I have a parlor table with either a granite or slate top (as opposed to marble)...looks very old...perhaps even original to the piece (1880s). Speaking of which, has anybody else noticed much use of stone material other than marble on Victorian furniture? Now I'm off-topic.
- Jason
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"I hate this century" - Grandpa Simpson
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[email protected]
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« Reply #2 on: April 02, 2008, 01:12:08 AM » |
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I have no personal experience, however...would one of the granite/stone countertop companies be a resource? I just visited one and they have amazing machinery which cuts and polishes all sizes of material. Perhaps they would be a resource if not the answer.
gordie
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Gordie
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Michadi Antiques
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« Reply #3 on: April 02, 2008, 09:45:10 PM » |
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Actually I do have some experience with this, and it can be done by a novice. Having said that I would not recommend attempting this without the proper tools unless you are a glutton for punishment or trying to build up your arm strength. You may need to go through hours and hours of hand sanding/polishing starting at about 100 grit through 12,000 (yes that is twelve thousand) grit "wetordry" sandpaper in order to get a nice polish. Note that if you try to work on a single area it will probably stand out like a sore thumb, so most likely you will need to uniformly polish the entire surface. Your best bet is to get a pneumatic wet sander and the appropriate polishing disks designed specifically for this task. These range all the way up to about 40,000 grit. You will of course need a good air compressor that will deliver some significant CFM to run the tool. The wet sander draws water through a hose attached to a 5 gallon bucket to lubricate and cool the surface of the marble. I purchased my wet sander and sanding disks on eBay for around $350.
Hope this helps,
Michael
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Rare Victorian
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« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2008, 09:49:06 PM » |
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Bingo. Thanks Michael.
I think with the number of tops I'll be polishing, I'm better off to find a professional shop and save the dough. The volume doesn't warrant a $350 investment.
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flomaton
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« Reply #5 on: April 20, 2008, 10:00:33 AM » |
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On marble cleaning...for stains, you can lay marble in the bright sun and keep coated with bleach. I have had good results, some out up to a month on a pure white Belter marble, for example. Then use steel wool/water.
For polishing...You can water sand with 320 grit graduating up to 800/1000 grit to help on sheen/shine, then use a good marble wax or possibly better a carnuaba wax available at local hardware store(clear for white marble). Adjust grits and coats of wax/buffing for varying sheen.
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vaillancourt_antiquities
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« Reply #6 on: April 20, 2008, 08:00:25 PM » |
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For stains - AAA Hellenic Marble in West Chester, PA uses (and sells) a sort of powder that you mix into a paste, spread over the stain, cover with cling film overnight, and rinse off the next day. I have used this both at home and paid them to do the job - with mixed results depending on the type of marble and type of stain.
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Michadi Antiques
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« Reply #7 on: April 20, 2008, 08:51:32 PM » |
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Actually I would take issue with a previous message regarding the use of steel wool on marble. You most definitely never want to touch steel wool to marble for the following reason. Steel wool will drop small particles of steel into the marble which is porous. If you have ever used steel wool (or even a Brillo pad) you will notice that you start with a large pad and it becomes smaller the more you use it. The fibers of steel will turn to rust in short order, and that rust then becomes embedded within the marble. In other words you have traded one stain for another, and rust stains are near impossible to remove from marble. Your best bet would be to go to an auto parts store and pick up several fine grits of Wetordry sand paper which can be obtained up to about 2,500 grit. You don't want to attempt this on a piece of marble that has a fine polish as that polish will be lost. For polished marble you will need to get up to about 20,000 grit or finer for the polish to return.
Michael
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woodwright
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« Reply #8 on: April 20, 2008, 11:54:06 PM » |
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I have never attempted to polish marble, but agree with Michael about the steel wool - it always wears off and leaves small deposits behind, which when it comes in contact with water will rust almost immediately (and leave stains behind). The same issue occurs when finishing/ refinishing furniture and using a water based stain, or finish. I am a professional cabinetmaker, and very rarely use steel wool, but instead use Scotch Brite pads (sometimes called synthetic steel wool), it come in different colors to denote it's degree of fine or coarseness, and can be bought to use on electric sanders/ buffers. White is finest, next is gray, then maroon, then green - you may also find it in other colors. I use a green pad after sanding with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper, and on moulded and contoured surfaces (very flexible & it won't cut through the finish the way sandpaper will on sharp edges/ corners) between coats of finish -it makes a big difference in the quality of the final finish. Blow off with compressed air when done & wipe down with a soft cotton cloth, then use a tack cloth for a final wipe. I would think automotive rubbing & polishing compounds (some are super fine) with an electric buffer would also work well on marble - but I have never tried it. woodwright
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amadara
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« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2008, 11:09:13 AM » |
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Have you tried to research your stain? This site offers a number of procedures for removing various stains and scratches from marble. U.S. General Services Administration Historic Preservation Technical Procedures. ( http://w3.gsa.gov/__852565c500543eb4.nsf?OpenDatabase) The poultice could be a simple combination of tide and mineral water or hydrogen peroxide and then cover with plastic wrap taped down until dry. There are a number of really interesting techniques with full instructions. Good luck.?Ann |
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Rare Victorian
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« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2008, 12:04:51 PM » |
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amadara, that site is quite useful, thanks.
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