jacon4
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« on: May 15, 2009, 09:33:37 AM » |
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Recently, i acquired a period american Queen Anne (1720-1760) highboy base, it has its original brasses & finish. The only thing missing is the knee returns which i would like to reproduce however, if i have that done it will require that the legs be refinished (and hopefully color the new returns to match the legs).
What to do, leave it be or add new returns and refinish legs? Sooner or later, all antique furniture collectors face this sort of choice, what do posters here do when they have this choice?
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Michadi Antiques
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« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2009, 10:02:02 PM » |
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This question can be answered multiple ways depending on whether if we are addressing it from a purely financial point of view or if aesthetics is the primary issue. Some times the two attributes can merge and this is of course the most desirable situation. In general terms most pieces do benefit from repair/refinishing. There are exceptions to the rule however, especially in the case of Early American pieces such as yours. Several points to consider can help one to answer the question:
1) Is the item of an historical nature?
2) Are we talking about a high value piece >$20K or so prior to any restoration activities?
3) Is the piece basically complete and in its original condition?
You mentioned that yours is the base of a highboy which would imply that much of the original is missing. In the vast majority of cases this would tend to significantly diminish the value of a piece, and thus restoration becomes less of an issue in terms of potential financial loss, allowing one to concentrate on the aesthetics. I would assume therefore you acquired the piece primarily as something you would like to use or display in your home, and thus I would recommend you go ahead make the necessary repairs without undue worry so you can enjoy it from that perspective.
Just my take on the issue...
Michael
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jacon4
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« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2009, 07:00:23 AM » |
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Michael, yeah, this is what i was thinking. The piece has already been altered sometime in the 18th century making it much less valuable. I bought it to use as a small server in my home & was struck by it's "plain & neat" form, a popular furniture fashion in this period. The fact that it had it's original brass/finish was kind of a bonus which makes me hesitate.
On to the furniture restorer, i want the knee returns!! (small corner blocks where the legs meet the case, glued on & therefore often missing)
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woodwright
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« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2009, 12:58:54 PM » |
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Another option you may want to consider is to have the knees made and prefinished to match as close as possible - and then attached them - w/o stripping/ refinishing the legs. A good finisher should be able to come up w/ a very close color/ finish match (perfect is a good goal to strive for, but not always attainable). If I were doing it, I would drill 2 small dowel holes for the knee blocks (before they are shaped) - which will assure realignment after shaping - (label each block & leg w/ numbers to match for proper location). Use a VERY EASY release tape on the legs before tracing the profile to be shaped into them (so don't mark up legs w/ pencil) - then keep checking the fit until a near perfect match is attained. (I like Duck Brand 30 day Perfect Release Plus tape- it's purple. http://duckproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=1&subid=2&plid=448 Super easy release - won't harm all but the worst finishes). Prefinish them then carefully glue them on. They wouldn't be as perfectly flush w/ the legs, and the finish match would not be as perfect if they were glued on, sanded flush and refinished, but should still look good w/o refinishing the legs. woodwright |
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« Last Edit: May 16, 2009, 02:26:36 PM by woodwright »
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jacon4
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« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2009, 06:31:00 PM » |
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Woodwright, i guess one could do that but it seems like an awful lot of trouble to go thru for a piece thats already been altered, was only 2k in the dealers shop which he reduced to 1500 almost before i asked. ( things are still tough out there in the antique sales world)
Another thing, i am going to use it as a server which means food will be on/ around it and the legs are almost black with over 250 years of imbeded smoke, soot, dirt etc. The present/original finish is shellac, i took some alcohol and wiped a spot on the back and man o man, the 250 year old patina on the walnut is a KNOCK OUT. If i ever wondered about the wondrous properties of shellac, i dont any more, after over 250 yrs. it's STILL doing it job, its just dirty.
So, its on to the restorers shop for this old girl, new knees, new shellac and who knows, i'll probably clean and polish her brasses as well.
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woodwright
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« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2009, 12:34:59 PM » |
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I only suggested that because it sounded like you were adverse to refinishing it. If you don't have a problem w/refinishing, then you'd get a better match going that route. You'll have to post a pic. of it here when you get it done. Good luck. woodwright
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jacon4
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« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2009, 10:06:43 AM » |
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Hey Woodwright, oh no, i am not adverse to refinishing at all, its just that with a piece that does have its original surface, i will pause and consider options. I was just wondering what posters here do in similar circumstances.
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JohnRVR
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« Reply #7 on: May 27, 2009, 02:13:38 PM » |
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I would have responded sooner, but I was 'off the grid' for a bit and then it had appeared to me you had already made your decision. But John asked me to put in my two cents. Essentially, yes, yes and yes. A good restorer should be able to replace the knee and color and finish to match the existing surface, at a reasonable cost. Certainly at a cost that is reasonable to the overall value of the piece.
Secondly, if the existing finish is non original, as I would almost 'bet the farm' on, there is no harm in either "revitalizing" the finish, if by the grace of god it is shellac, or going down to the wood and patina and re finishing it with an age appropriate shellac finish. And again, for the size of the piece, this should not be a tremendous endeavor with great cost relative to the piece.
I don't know where you live, but if you need recommendations for someone in your area let me know, or if you are close to the Philly area I can give you a quote, broken down. All the best. By the way, its' a very pretty form.
John, RVR
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jacon4
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« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2009, 09:29:47 AM » |
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Hey JohnRVR, LOL, bet the farm huh, man o man, i am on a roll here on rare victorian, first i won a wall cab. on new classified section and now a farm! It doesnt get any better than that!! Yup, is pretty sure the surface of case is original (except for top board which was added) as there are no tell tale drips on apron bottom edges, ditto not a speck of splash on drawer sides where they meet drawer fronts. Is absolutely positive existing finish is shellac. Now that Michadi Antiques has talked me into having the piece restored, in addition to knee returns, i am considering a different top as the one that was added is a single hand planed board of white pine 21.5" wide. IMO, it really should be walnut so i have been shopping for extra wide walnut lumber and found this board @ Horizon Wood in Ridgway, PA., it's 24.25" wide X 2" thick X 8' feet long. http://www.horizonevolutions.com/online-inventory/extra-wide-sets/images/091-closeupsm.gif |
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JohnRVR
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« Reply #9 on: June 01, 2009, 08:38:32 PM » |
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Excellent news on the 'finish/shellac' issue! Whoever, is doing the work should know how to treat it. I.E. just clean and or revitalize, which also bodes well for the color and finish match for the knee returns. Unfortunately, I do not have a farm, so I guess I will have to 'double down' on a card game with you! All the best,
John, RVR
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jacon4
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« Reply #10 on: December 10, 2009, 09:01:03 AM » |
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I GOT THE BOARD
After searching all summer & fall, mostly online in PA. and out west, i finally came upon a "boutique sawmill" 30 mins north of charlotte nc. This guy specializes in "urban harvest" trees, very old trees in urban areas that must come down for one reason or another. This board is 27" wide X 78" long X 1 1/8" thick, prettiest piece of walnut i ever saw and just perfect for a top on QA base.
Now its on to finding someone to build/install the top which presents brand new problems to deal with, hand or power tools? best way to keep a board that wide from having structural issues? and naturally, finishing always plays a major role in any restoration work.
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYBODY
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