Rare Victorian Forum

Hi all,

I've picked up a few new antiques over the summer after not buying anything new in quite a few years. Considering the quality and condition of the pieces I've taken a renewed interest in the "environment".  I was wondering what everyone else does in regard to temp and humidity.

I've done some internet searching on the issue and recommendations seem all over the map from a strict adherence to museum like standards of 50-55% humidity year round to wide ranges of 40-60% or 30%-70% down to specific seasonal suggestions such as 35-45% in winter / 45-55% in summer.

My house currently seems to run about 35-40 in the winter with the help of a 13-gallon portable humidifier.

Thanks,
John

Good high-level article here suggests:

Hello John, just a quick note, your advice and the article are correct in regards to humidity.  However, remember that every climate zone is different.  The most sound advice I can give as a restorer, is to let the furniture 'breath and move' with the natural environment it is in.  The harshest conditions possible are these new houses that are hermetically sealed. In which I do also recommend a humidifier, and if you have a green thumb, a lot of plants.  An old house like yours, or my shop which is very 'open' to the environment, is ideal.  But if you live, for example in the South West, a humidifier would do more damage than good because it creates a false ambient environment.  All the best, John RV

As an owner of colonial american pieces (say 1730- 1780) almost all of them have splits in the wood somewhere. The last colonial piece i bought was a 1750 tavern table ( theres pics of it here somewhere) that was described as a 2 board top. Actually, its a 1 board top (27 inches wide) that split early in its life. If i had a dollar for every auction description of early american furniture that said " age crack" or " age split", i'd be on the french riviera drinking some grand beverage. These cracks or splits are not the result of age. For hundreds of years prior to the 18th century, most furniture was made by joiners who joined riven wood (mostly oak) with mortise and tendon joints held together by wooden pins. Furniture built in this manner is virtually indestructable, it doesnt split, crack, warp, etc. The pit saw in the 18th century changed EVERYTHING, combined with virgin forests, furniture makers now had sawn stock of unimageable widths.

Out went the joiners, in came the cabinetmaker, out went panel and stile riven oak, in came the dovetail method of board construction. As Wallace Nutting (his bias in favor of joined pilgrim furniture shows here but he makes some valid points) describes the change that took place "There was no advance made by 18th century cabinetmakers, when they abandoned the scheme of frame and panel universal in the 17th century. Particularly in the great highboys and secretaries, the wide ends split. How could it have been thought possible, in a glued-up surface twenty-seven inches wide, that anything else would happen? The scheme of dovetailing everything was good, but the abandoning of panels was very unfortunate. The scheme was really the adoption of the board construction scorned in the 17th century. The consequence is today that large mahogany surfaces go to pieces, whereas the old oak goes on forever"

Here is an article by Bob flexner where he describes his view of moisture,light, etc and its effects on furniture.
http://www.masterpiecefurniture.com/design_notes/flexner/antiques_roadshow.html

OK, back to that 1750 tavern table, it's got a hair-line crack in the top, so what? Its not hurting anyone, it does not affect the structual integrity of the table one bit, its the prettiest dang tavern table i ever saw and it still holds food and beverages on its surface just as well today as it did 250 years ago.

HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE